Day 1-8: Cartagena & The Lost City

Cartagena – one of the major ports on the northern coast of Colombia and once a significant link in the route to West Indies. A former Spanish colony, it was an important port for the export of Bolivian silver & gold to Spain, and for the import of enslaved Africans. The city’s history dates back to around 4000 BC, when it was first established with the Puerto Hormiga Culture. Over the course of the next 5000 years, many communities arose in modern-day Cartagena and its surrounding neighborhoods, including the Tayrona people in the Sierra Nevada of Santa Marta, who established the Ciudad Peridada (“Lost City”) over 1000 years ago.

By around 1500 AD, the people living around Cartagena belonged to the umbrella group known as Caribes. From 1500-1533, the Spanish attempted to establish a settlement in modern-day Cartagena, eventually succeeding in 1533. The Spanish colonists primarily used the city for the export of gold stolen from indigenous peoples or mined by enslaved peoples. In order to protect the wealth stored in Cartagena by the colonists, the Spanish began constructing the now-iconic fortifications that surround the city. The project lasted nearly two centuries and ended in 1796, consisting of nearly 7 miles of stone walls.

Today, the walls that once represented the oppressive colonial embrace of Spanish capitalism, have become engulfed by modern-day Colombian enterprise – overgrown with bars and restaurants, vendors, and tourists searching for the best sunset view. This is where my journey began.

Day 1 in Cartagena

I arrived in Cartagena eager to start my journey but anxious of the encroaching loneliness that often accompanies solo-traveling. Fortunately, this fear quickly evaporated when I arrived at my first hostel. Entering my dorm, I was immediately welcomed by Derrick, a happy-go-lucky backpacker from Ontario. I have never been disappointed by the warmth of Canadian travelers and this was no exception. Derrick, who had been staying in Cartagena for 2 weeks by the time I arrived, wasted no time integrating me into his hostel family. After settling in, we went out to explore the Cartagenean nightlife –

It was incredible to see the empty corridor-ed streets I drove past a few hours earlier covered in sporadically placed tables and chairs, Colombians and tourists eating pizza, drinking mojitos, and enjoying the cool evening air. Colombian pop, salsa, and rock music engulfed every corner, crowded street vendors surrounded by hungry patrons, and street performers parodying Michael Jackson and other icons.

Cartagena By Bike

The next day, after a late night full of sweet drinks and fried food, I was ready for some exercise – and so my 2 friends, Sarah from Munich, and Marit, from Amsterdam, and I went on a biking tour of the city. The tour took us through the 3 major neighborhoods of the historical city. Throughout the tour, our guide explained the history of the areas as well as the impact increased costs of living & high unemployment have had on its long-time residents.

Over the next few days, Derrick, Sarah, Marit, Rocio and I walked, biked, and ate our way through the city

Santa Marta

By Wednesday, it was time to leave Cartagena for Santa Marta for the 4-day trek to the Lost City, found deep within the Sierra Nevada.

A 5 hour drive from Cartagena, Sarah and I took an afternoon bus on Wednesday evening to Santa Marta

After checking into our hostel, Sarah and I went out to dinner with Stephan, another backpacker from Germany, and explored Santa Marta’s downtown

The Lost City Trek

Early the next morning, I traveled to Minca to join the group I would hike to the Lost City with. The group of 9 included 2 travelers from the UK, Jade & Katie; a Colombian family from Bogota, Frank, Helena, Andreas, & Paris, a backpacker from Montreal, Hassan, and a woman from Chile, Javiera. The 4-day trek would take us through the mountains of the Sierra Nevada to the Lost City and back, led by our guide, Janet, and English translator, Victor.

Over the 28 mile journey, we traversed muddy paths, waded through streaming rivers, climbed up rocky inclines, and shuffled down steep clay ridges, accompanied by gorgeous views of the Sierra Nevada mountain ranges.

Over the course of the journey, we all became quite close through our shared hardship

And on the 3rd day, we made the final 2 hour journey up the steps to the Lost City

After climbing the 1200 stone steps, we finally reached the Lost City

While we were there, we met the Shaman’s family who still live in the valley community

And we learned about how the community uses nature to make to make different colors…

And after a day of exploring the ruins, we began the journey home. While the purpose of our trek was done, we prepared for the experiences we had yet to discover on our way home.

And on the last night we celebrated with some music

I have done a number of challenging treks in the past, but this one felt quite special to me. Often, adventures I go on are tempered by tourism “guardrails”. This infrastructure, which is designed to protect visitors from potential danger often takes away from the reality of the experience when done in excess. While safety is very important, I believe there is a balance between protecting visitors and maintaining the genuine qualities of the experience – and the Lost City trek does this incredibly well. There are no easy ways to get to the lost city – there is no train that will take you to the entrance like with Macchu Picchu or a highway that takes you through the highlights like Shenandoah – everyone, from the wealthy 70-year-old to the typical backpacker must hike the 28 miles and walk up the 1200 steps. While there are mules that can carry you if you get sick (and some do), you must complete the journey on your own – with your own mental stamina and determination. And yet, despite these barriers to entry – thousands of people complete the trek each year – people in their 70’s and 80’s, individuals with physical disabilities, and families with little children – many of whom passed me while I was huffing and puffing part way up a hill. The hike is challenging but it is very accessible due to the wonderful support of the guides, chefs, and translators – as long as you are determined to complete it. This develops a unique sense of pride and community and I would highly recommend it to anyone who appreciates the satisfaction that comes with completing a challenge – and the community you can build along the way.

Final Thoughts

This first stretch of my trip ends with a lesson that I hope to bring along with me in the rest of my 6 month trip. In the van drive back to my hostel, I was talking with our translator. Victor, 41, immigrated to Colombia from Venezuela in his twenties to escape the tenuous political system. Now, supporting his wife and and 2 daughters, Victor talked about the financial challenges he faced working in Colombia. While he felt as though he could meet all of the necessities, it was challenging to acquire the luxuries he so often saw in the tourists groups he led. While he expressed nothing but gratitude for the life he created for himself and his family, the disparity and unfairness of the dynamic between him and tourists like me was clear. While I do not believe it would be productive to feel guilty for the wonderful gift my personal circumstances have allowed me – my ability to travel is a privilege, not a right – and I want to be sure to fully appreciate and be grateful for the incredible experiences I have the opportunity to discover.

See you next week in Peru,

Sam Lehn