Days 25-40: Patagonia II

Argentinian Patagonia encompasses the arid steppes, grasslands, and desserts. Argentina’s famous RN-40 highway passes the pinnacles of Monte Fitz Roy and Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park. I knew I would only have about a week on this side before heading to Buenos Aires so I had to make some hard choices on what to visit – in the end I decided on spending 4 days in El Chalten and 4 days in Ushuaia, leaving El Calafate (considered the more touristy town) for a day in between flights.

Argentinian Patagonia: El Calafate & El Chalten

I took a bus 6 hours from Puerto Natales to El Calafate and then another bus 3 hours to El Chalten. Arriving in the evening, I went to my hostel and prepped for the next several days where I would hike and camp through Los Glaciares National Park.

The next day, I went to a local camping gear shop and rented a tent and sleeping bag and began my hike through the national park to a campsite by Fitz Roy, where I hoped to catch another sunrise.

Fun Fact! Yvon Chouinard’s, inspiration for the now-famous Patagonia brand logo is the silhouette of Mount Fitz Roy in Los Glaciares National Park.

Arriving at the camp, I set up my tent and began chatting with the other campers. We discussed our hiking plans and committed to hiking up to Fitz Roy, hopeful of capturing the sunrise despite the less-than-clear forcast. We set our meeting time at 3:00am and went to our respective tents.

The next morning, we drank coffee by our tents and began our nighttime trek up to Fitz Roy. Encouraged by the mostly clear sky, we rushed up the mountain arriving well before the 5:30am sunrise. Unfortunately, when we reached our staked position, rain clouds began to swoop in, the temperature dropped, and the little drizzle quickly turned to snow and hale. We hunkered down under the rocks, huddled together for warmth as we pleaded for the clouds to go away.

30 grueling minutes later, by the grace of >>whatever you believe in<< the clouds dispersed and we saw Fitz Roy’s peaks glow in the sunrise.

And watched the sunrise

Hiking back, we returned to camp for breakfast and another coffee. By the early afternoon, we said our goodbyes and I began my hike to the next campsite by Laguna Torre.

Unfortunately, similar to my experience in Torres del Paine, I was not destined to be dry in my post-sunrise commute – and I was challenged with rain throughout the course of my 3 hour hike to the next camp. Drenched from top to bottom, I set up my tent and began the hopeless process of attempting to dry my gear in a downpour. Laying down by my burner for warmth (thatI periodically turned on and off to heat the tent), I daydreamed of hamburgers and fries – resolved to survive the night so I could enjoy them when I got back into town.

The next morning, I awoke, again, to a lovely sunny day. Leaving all of my possessions out to dry, I explored Laguna Torre in my sandles, grateful that I splurged on a nice pair, as they were the only thing that was dry…

Damp but satisfied, I opted to return to El Chalten that evening so I could dry my pack, do laundry, and enjoy a hot meal.

I have to say, after lugging 35lbs of damp, heavy, gear through the mountains for 3 days, I have never been more happy to do laundry, east fast food, and take a hot shower.

The next day, I took a bus back to El Calafate and took an afternoon flight to my next and final destination in Patagonia, Ushuaia.

Argentinian Patagonia: Ushuaia

Ushuaia is a small city located on the Tierra del Fuego archipelago, the southernmost tip of South America. Often nicknamed the “End of the World”, Ushuaia is perched on a steep hill surrounded by the Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel. It is the gateway to Antarctica Cruises and tours to nearby Isla Yecapasela, known as “Penguin Island” for its penguin colonies.

Arriving after an easy hour flight, I left my pack at the hostel and, given the unusually gorgeous weather, opted for yet another hike, this time to Laguna de los Tempanos and Vinciguerra Glacier.

The hike highlighted the diversity in beauty Patagonia has to offer. Vast fields of peat, dense forests, and rocky glaciers with horses roaming throughout – my body, exhausted from the past 2 weeks of hiking, rallied to enjoy yet another beautiful site.

Vinciguerra Glacier

… and another horse!

The next day, I woke up early to catch a 6:00am day tour that would take us through the Fuegiuan forest to Isla Martello where we visited the Acatushun Museum of birds and marine mammals and sailed to the Island, where we walked with the magellanic penguins and papuans.

Some close ups!

And some shots from further away!

And I have to include 2 penguins who were dancing with each other!

During the trip, I met Gloria and her husband – a lovely couple visiting from Colombia

In the afternoon, we took a boat along the Beagle Channel, where we got to see the Bird Island, Sea Lions Island, and the Lighthouse Les Eclaireurs.

My last day in Ushuaia, I spent time in the city, and gave my body a needed rest.

Conclusion

I won’t spend too much time here because I hope my 2 blog posts, photos, and stories say enough – but I will end by saying that I highly recommend visiting Patagonia to anyone who loves exploring the diversity of nature and how the harshness of an environment bends the biology of its inhabitants. And the penguins are pretty cool too 🙂

See you next week in Buenos Aires,

Sam